Let’s first analyze why no limit holdem struggled in the past. Primarily, this was because it was played for cash (not in a tournament setting) and there is a lot of skill involved. How is this a problem? Well, the good players simply fleeced the bad players too quickly. New players lost their money very quickly and never wanted to play again. Casinos did not want to have no limit holdem tables because they did not want their customers to lose their money quickly and never play again (this means no one would pay the rake). So what happened?

First, no limit holdem began to be played for tournaments primarily. While there is a lot of skill in no limit tournaments, there is a lot of luck too. This allowed the newer players to have a chance to win money. Also, the lottery aspect of a tournament proved to be very popular, since people have a chance to win a lot of money for a small buy-in. This is why the World Series of Poker is so popular. For a buyin of $10,000, you can be the next multi-millionaire.

The explosion of internet poker helped fuel the growth of no-limit holdem. Online poker allowed people to play no limit holdem for low stakes. This allowed many people the time to learn the game cheaply before attempting to play for higher stakes. By leveling the playing field, the experienced players were no longer able to quickly remove the inexperienced players of their money so quickly.

When it comes down to it, no limit holdem is one of the most, if not the most, exciting card game that exists. There is a lot of strategy, as well as a luck factor. The pots can be small or huge, depending on the outcome of the hand. Since people are now more familiar with the game, the disparity in skill has become eroded, so people are now more comfortable playing each other at no limit holdem.

On other websites such as Full Tilt Poker, which is the site I mainly play at, it presents the players with avatars to choose from. A player can choose from avatars such as a panda bear, hockey player, a puppy, or even a gnome (which ultimately became my permanent avatar). Why is this a big deal you ask? Well I can tell you. If you were to ever watch a poker movie, there is a golden rule to becoming a successful poker player and that is to leave your emotions at the door. Having a happy avatar in my opinion will transform a player from average to “beast mode”. Having an avatar that is confused, angry or normal will force you to run bad and will not allow you to be a successful poker player (I witnessed it).

I was introduced to this happy avatar method from fellow online player ‘jeppg1111’ who has had a lot of success over the years (he owns SnG poker). I have stuck with this method throughout my time as an online poker player and I see the difference it can make it when it comes to winning and losing. So if you’re struggling out there and you don’t understand why then maybe its time you take a look at your avatar. I feel with this quick and easy change any player can see a dramatic change in their poker game. (This is not an exact science)

Let’s say you decide to start playing $.25-$.50 no-limit games. Those tables typically have a maximum buy-in of $50. Now, if your starting bankroll was just $200, the odds of you going broke are incredibly high. After all, anyone, no matter how skilled they are, can go on a four buy-in downswing at that level.

It is advisable to have at least 20 buy-ins for the game you are playing. So if you wanted to start with $.25-$.50 no-limit, it would be smart to have a $1,000 bankroll to begin with. Even with 20 buy-ins, your risk of ruin is still noteworthy. It is not unheard of for more cautious players to utilize a bankroll of about 50 buy-ins. You have to determine what works best for you.

The idea is to play at a level that strikes the perfect balance between being comfortable, but also being challenging enough to take seriously. Play too high and you’ll be too worried about the money at stake to make optimal decisions. Too low and you’ll play carelessly since you do not respect the stakes at hand.

There are dozens of bankroll management guides and tips. Many of them preach a strict schedule of when to move up and down. But remember, poker is just a game and ultimately you have to enjoy what you’re doing at least a little. Don’t let yourself be brainwashed by nitty bankroll management guidelines.

If you are beating $.25-$.50 and have increased your bankroll to 30 buy-ins, take a shot at a $.50-$1 game. It doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing proposition. Decrease the number of your $.25-$.50 tables by one and substitute it with a $.50-$1 game. As you become more and more comfortable with the higher stakes and your bankroll grows larger and larger, you can gradually move your way up the ladder in a staggered fashion. Don’t get too stressed out about it or worry too much about following strict guidelines. Do what seems natural and sensible and you’ll be alright.

One of the biggest hurdles to overcome as a poker player is having the discipline to move back down. Players usually feel a sense of “conquering” a buy-in level such that they cannot fathom having to drop back down to that level to prove themselves once more. However, this is a common part of the game and something that all successful players have had to do at one time or another. If you want to be the best, you have to play and think like the best. That means knowing when to put your tail between your legs and go back to work on improving your fundamentals at the smaller stakes.

For the purposes of this article, let’s define micro stakes games as $.01-$.02 up to $.05-$.10 and low stakes games as $.10-$.25 up to $1-$2.

Micro stakes games are quite a bit more beatable than low stakes games. At micro stakes tables, it is not rare to have players who are hemorrhaging money hand over fist. At low stakes tables, people tend to be a little more careful since usually the money they stand to lose isn’t exactly insignificant (at least $25, but often as much as a couple hundred).

Additionally, players at low stakes tables tend to have a better concept for understanding their opponents’ hand value. While micro stakes players are typically only concerned with their hand, most low stakes players have begun to consider how their hand relates to their opponents hands. So with all of this in mind, there are a few minor strategy adjustments required to beat these games:

Mask Ranges More in Low Stakes

In micro-stakes games, it’s not terribly important to worry about concealing your hand strength. Often, players are so caught up in their own holdings that it doesn’t particularly matter if you play your cards in a way that “turns your hand over”. For example, if you raise with pocket Aces and someone re-raises in a micro-stakes game, it wouldn’t be ill-advised to put in another re-raise preflop. Whatever your opponent re-raised you with, they clearly like. It is quite uncommon for micro-stakes players to go from “clearly liking” a hand to flat-out folding it in the face of counter aggression. Keep it simple and straightforward in micro-stakes games, and you’ll be fine.

At low stakes, however, making this re-raise would generally be a bad idea. In doing so, it “turns your hand over” since most players won’t make a 4th preflop bet like that without holding a very premium hand. In other words, a 4th preflop bet here all but says to your opponent, “I’ve got queens or better.”

For this reason, it is more important to “mask” your hand ranges by playing your really strong hands like an average-strength hand (ie: just call a re-raise flop with Aces which is just what you would do with something like pocket Sevens) and by playing average-strength hands as really strong (ie: re-raise preflop sometimes with pocket Sevens, so when you do it with pocket Aces, it doesn’t send everyone running for the hills).

The higher and higher stakes you play, the more important masking ranges becomes. At the top levels ($200-$400 no-limit and beyond), players have to mask their ranges to such a huge degree that they often play complete garbage like pocket Aces from time to time in order to ensure that they will be paid off down the road once they actually do have Aces.

With a maximum buy-in (100 big blinds), players can put themselves in a position where they have to make more complicated decisions. With the minimum buy-in (20 big blinds), the game effectively plays more like a tournament where you’re just trying to double up or go home. A max buy-in usually leads to major decisions on the flop, turn, and river. A minimum buy-in is essentially a preflop and flop game. Turn and river decisions are irrelevant since usually you’ll have folded or gotten all of your chips into the pot before those two cards come off.

The main strategy behind short stacking is to pick a hand and go with it. You won’t be seeing a lot of flops or making speculative calls. The name of the game is fold, fold, fold, all-in, fold, fold, fold, all-in. Here are a few tips for short-stacking:

1. Keep your monsters masked. If you’ve been raising all-in preflop a lot, and suddenly only raise to 3x or 4x the big blind, that is going to look very strong. To some players, that might seem counterintuitive, but anyone at the table with half a clue about optimal short-stacking strategy will know you’ve got something monstrous like Aces or Kings. When you get dealt a hand like Aces, don’t change your strategy. It’s important to mask these cards by playing them the same way you’d play something like King-Queen: just move all-in. Don’t give anyone reason to think that you have a better hand than usual.

2. Stay with your hand. Say you have $.35 at the table and raise to $.10 with Ace-King. One player calls. The flop is Queen-Nine-Six. Even though that flop missed you, you shouldn’t slow down. Move all-in for your last $.25. You’ve already pot-committed yourself by putting in ~30% of your stack preflop. Get full value for your hands. It’s entirely possible your opponent missed the flop as well, or will fold a hand that has you beat (like pocket Fives) thanks to your aggression. You should almost never put in more than 25% of your stack only to fold at a later stage in the hand.

3. Be mindful of position. When you’re on the button or in the small blind, it makes wayyy more sense to shove all-in preflop with hands like Ace-Five than it does when you’re in early position. Remember, the fewer people left to act behind you means the less strong your hand has to be in order to justify moving all-in. Fold almost everything except the real top-notch stuff in early position, but don’t be afraid to stick all of the chips in there with stuff like King-Nine when you’re one of the last players to act. Poker is a game of relativity!

1. Patience

This is by far the most important asset you have in a low stakes poker game. Since the stakes aren’t very high, many players make reckless gambles out of apathy towards the money. A rule of thumb for beating poker games is to do the opposite of what everyone at the table is doing. Since people in low stakes games play a lot of hands, chase a lot of draws, and don’t like to fold, your advantage can be made by playing the opposite style: patient and opportunistically aggressive in the right spots. Put more practically, a winning, patient strategy means not playing a ton of hands. Fold tempting, but ultimately garbage holdings like Ace-Five. Basically wait for a premium hand and punish the sea of fish who refuse to fold with large bet after large bet.

2. Bet Sizing

Since players in low stakes games are generally tempted to chase draws, it is imperative that you bet your strong hands very hard to price them out of drawing to a straight or flush. The same applies for preflop situations when you have a monster starting hand. Don’t just make a minimum raise. Pump it up to 5-7 times the big blind preflop. In higher stakes games, this isn’t a great strategy, but in low stakes games, people don’t like to fold. Why not make them pay out the teeth to see flops? By making large bets, you also help get your opponents pot committed to seeing a showdown. In other words, if you can get them to put in one large bet, it’s not hard to get them to call two or three more large ones afterwards.

3. Straightforward Aggression

Low stakes games aren’t complicated, so there’s no need to make them like that. Advanced, cutsie plays like slowplaying, trapping and check-raising are necessary to beat higher stakes games, but at the low stakes level, people aren’t too concerned with your hand. Remember, they’re just focused on their hand. As long as they feel like they have something halfway decent, they will keep calling you down. Don’t give them many opportunities to get a free card. Many low stakes players are very passive. This means that if you try to trap them by attempting a check-raise, you might just find that they check behind you more often than you were hoping. There’s a popular acroynm KISS which stands for Keep It Simple, Stupid. That should be the driving theory behind your low stakes poker adventures.